{"id":1293,"date":"2022-09-03T16:21:04","date_gmt":"2022-09-03T15:21:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peterherd.co.uk\/?p=1293"},"modified":"2025-09-05T11:47:36","modified_gmt":"2025-09-05T10:47:36","slug":"mountaineering-on-skye","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/peterherd.co.uk\/index.php\/2022\/09\/03\/mountaineering-on-skye\/","title":{"rendered":"Mountaineering on Skye"},"content":{"rendered":"[et_pb_section admin_label=”section”]\n\t\t\t[et_pb_row admin_label=”row”]\n\t\t\t\t[et_pb_column type=”4_4″][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text”]\n

Routine<\/strong>: a usual set of activities or way of doing things.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Patterns are part of the world we live in and us humans are pattern spotters. \u201cThat strategy worked last time, this situation seems similar; I\u2019ll act similarly and things should work similarly\u201d.<\/em> We create stories about how people behave and how things work that can ultimately aid our success.  But achieving success,<\/em> is not always the product of having made an optimal<\/em> set of decisions, or even having spotted the pattern. The warm glow of getting it right<\/em> can even consolidate errors we make unknowingly. Can we prepare for situations that don\u2019t conform to our previous experiences, that don\u2019t match our expectations?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Occasionally events unfold in ways that  require us to recalibrate and I think this is useful.  This deviation from routine offers the potential for novel experiences. These experiences would usually involve an element of uncertainty – \u201cHow would I cope in that situation?\u201d.<\/em> For many,  seeking novel experiences is fulfilling, perhaps necessary, but it can carry more risk too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the mountains, routine can be useful . Watching the weather forecast helps us pick a suitable objective, packing a rucksack to a tick-list prevents us forgetting crucial items and informing someone of our plans can be handy should we have an accident. But mountains have a habit of throwing up situations we haven’t planned for. This variability is part of the reason we engage with them in the first place. They offer respite from routine; they offer novelty<\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Embracing the novelty of wild environments is for most, beneficial. We might push our boundaries, acquire new skills, become stronger and better understand ourselves. On mountains, relationships are\u00a0 forged; and occasionally broken. When we leave the street lights and cars behind we engage in anti-routine. Some people call that adventure.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

–<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Navigating the single track roads north across Skye, through mid-summers\u2019 saggy cloud and drizzle it’s fair to say I was holding expectations about how the day would unfold. I was on way to to pick up my client, Angus, from his holiday cottage in Carbost. Describing himself as an experienced Munro\u2019ist<\/em>, he was keen to engage in some Cuillin Ridge mountaineering. He\u2019d driven over for the week and employed me to guide him.\u00a0 He was in his mid seventies and I wondered how his age might influence his fitness and resilience. As the wipers swished at max speed and I pulled up to his accommodation, I mentally prepped myself.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stepping out of the car my bubble burst. Angus wore a sun hat, long cut Berghaus waterproof, moleskin trousers tucked into thick red socks and he greeted my with a big grin. Now to the untrained eye, someone going mountaineering in 2020 and not clad in athletic-cut, lightweight, pro-shells is heading for trouble.  But to me, his get up spoke of mountain pragmatism, tried and tested authenticity and a bit of soul. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When working with clients part of my responsibility is to align  their objectives and experience with the prevailing conditions. Beyond just having a safe day out, we’d aim for a fun, fulfilling one too, trying to make the best possible use of the day.  Those with fixed objectives sometimes take a little persuasion toward a flexible plan. It’s important to have this flexibility because the mountains still don’t <\/em>support a bookings system. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So I was relieved by my gut evaluation: when Angus\u2019s described his Cuillin objectives they seemed naturally aligned with his experience and he seemed to know more or less what he was  getting himself in for. In spite of this, he sought to emphasise his age was catching up with him, that he was unsure of how he would cope with the weather and the rough terrain but was delighted to have a go and to turn back if necessary. I relaxed. Angus expressed the sort of modesty that reflected a life time in the hills. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Setting off up the Cuillin with a new companion in poor weather leaves a few unknowns to play out. There\u2019s no doubting I held expectations regarding Angus\u2019s  age and ability; \u201c can we afford to be committed in this minging weather?\u201d \u201cWhat if we\u2019re slow, get wet and cold \u201d. <\/em>Leaving the car my brain is on regular refresh, <\/em>trying my best to gauge the variables. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Progressing out of Coire Lagan and up the boulders of the Sgumain Stone Shoot I wonder \u201cWhat time do we need to make it to the crest by? What\u2019s the most efficient line across this slope?\u201d<\/em>. Its easy to lose a minute here and there, especially in the poor visibility and the minutes make a difference. We commit to a pace that allows us to move carefully and efficiently over the gabbro boulders. Reaching the ridge crest everything is wet and slippy. We negotiate a slimy chimney and I keep the rope really snug. We make reasonable time, traversing broken rock and slabs and then up the zigzag tramlines that decorate the summit slopes. By 2pm we\u2019re stood on the very much pointed top of Sgurr Alasdair.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Boiling mists tease fleeting glimpses to nearby peaks. A raven croaks; ragged, unseen, echos. We shake hands. He\u2019s surprised himself. I\u2019m impressed. Its not a day for hanging out but as the afternoon\u2019s showers strengthen he muses and  gesturing across the dark void of the Great Stone Shoot to the lesser frequented top of Sgurr Thearlaich asks \u201cWhat about getting across there, Pete?\u201d<\/em>. I swither. The challenge is tempting! Could we fit it in now? We\u2019re already pretty wet. We\u2019d be on the path by dark. I have a momentary inkling. \u201cWe don’t have the time today, but let\u2019s keep it in mind, maybe we can link it together next time, with the peak next door\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite the prevailing weather on the west of Scotland, opportunities do occasionally present themselves. Given the option of a longer day via a more aesthetic route, I\u2019ll encourage this over the \u2018trade route\u2019  – the simplest line to bag the summit. The more aesthetic lines often offer more engaging scrambling and by taking these routes people can gain a deeper sense of of the mountain\u2019s architecture and the technicality offers challenge that builds their skill set. I make a mental note of his objective and consider how best to approach it next time.  As we wander down the scree Angus enquires about other some esoteric routes. My interest peaks: there\u2019s nothing like a break in routine!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

–<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Over a few more days I get to know Angus. Like many Scottish hill goers, his Munros began as a weekend escape from the central belt. These mountains, with summits over 3000ft are distributed over a huge geographical area and ticking<\/em> them all requires a huge commitment. Most Munro\u2019ists<\/em> have a few stories to tell. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Angus is  a professional fiddle player who\u2019s played in major roles with famous orchestral groups. He finds inspiration in music that compliments the wild landscapes of the Scottish Highlands. Often, he\u2019ll refer to bits of music relating to a particular place, weather or mood. Some people have a way of speaking on behalf of places, communicating an intermediate language of music, written word and art; skills that illustrate understanding, reverence and immersion in place. I\u2019m lucky to share these conversations; they offer a different perspective on familiar landscapes. Wandering up the glacially polished slabs of Coire Lagan his music is inspired by jagged peaks, the black cliffs and the minging Scottish weather. I try to imagine how music could speak the language of rock and water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

–<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We plod leisurely toward Bealach Coire Lagan. We\u2019re following the stable bedrock above the scree slope that forms the apron of An Stac. In order to complete an 8hr journey, account for changing weather and the cumulative fatigue of being on your feet for a while, It\u2019s necessary to start early, maintain a steady pace and limit stops to fulfil only the necessary tasks. \u201cSlow is smooth, smooth is fast<\/em>\u201d is our mantra. Grabbing a handful of peanuts whilst donning waterproofs, securing harnesses and helmets, ready to engage in the technical section. It\u2019s damp but the terrain is simple and we move together, walking with the rope between us for much of the way. We reach the summit of Sgurr Mhic Coinnich without any fuss. The tethers that bind the morning mists break and the stone cavities of Coire Lagan and Coir\u2019 Uisk are open wide. The crest dries. I check my watch; we\u2019re making good time. It\u2019 s a key decision point . Angus knows I’m considering our move. He doesn\u2019t enquire but I sense his anticipation; such is the draw of these pointy peaks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve taken a 60m rope so that I have the flexibility to lower him all the way down Kings Chimney, the steep corner that bisects the prow of Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. We\u2019ve got time so I suggest carrying on. I explain this section carries additional risk. Its steeper and were more exposed to rock fall.  I\u2019m aware he could slip, and perhaps invert, as I lower him down the wall. We take time to talk through the descent so he knows how to position his feet and where to be mindful of loose rock. I check his harness is sitting optimally and I add a chest sling. I\u2019ve tied him to both ends of the rope and when he’s sat down on the bottom ledges, I can abseil after him and we both remain connected.  He commits over the edge. Its fair to say the 30m vertical descent, with its abyssal drops on either side, gives him a chunky dose of adrenalin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We continue moving together. I use the rope to continue protecting him on the steep scrambling steps, down to the bealach. He apologises, having taken a minor slip higher up. I brush it off. Its a little wet after all and I\u2019m comfortable with the likelihood he\u2019ll find the odd step challenging. By the time we reach the crux chimneys of Sgurr Thearlaich we encounter friends and colleagues travelling in the opposite direction. Nobody is hanging around but I’ts nice to catch up. We slot in between descending teams. The penultimate tricky bit goes suprisingly quickly for Angus and appearing over the lip he offers a wry smile. I find out later my pal Dave has given him a footy up the smooth groove line! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The remaining stretch to the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich is a glorious walk over open slabs and my favourite little stretch of the the Cuillin. Before long we\u2019re heading back down the Great Stone Shoot, the great rubble filled gash that splits the mountain. After the  unrelenting descent we drift back to the car, recounting the day\u2019s journey, the difficulties and discoveries. Its not long before we\u2019re hatching future plans. Angus has a list, of course.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

–<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next time we meet is on a crisp Autumn morning.  Sharp shadows cast across the glen floor. The grumble of a stag echoes from the coire. I arrive at the car park early, anticipating he\u2019ll already be there. He is. Angus has been camped in Glen Brittle for a few days. Not satisfied by the degree of wildness on offer at the main camp site, he\u2019s ferried 4 days supplies a few miles along the rough coast path to a spot where a stream runs by a patch of cropped grass. He describes it with fondness. A cold bath. Sunset view. Bliss. We don\u2019t hesitate to get going.  I have in mind a gem of a scramble over the Thuilm ridge; a route that links naturally with a traverse of Sgurr a Mhadaidh, the peak he\u2019s keen to aim for next.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I’m aware the route will approach the limit of his technical ability but I think he\u2019s ready for the challenge. Like many a Cuillin scramble, its a mix of stable bedrock and shattered rubble. Care is taken in each hand and foot placement. Pulling at hand-holds is generally avoided. Dry rock and light winds offer a simple passage and we\u2019re delighted to feel our soles adhere effortlessly to the rough rock. As I make short pitches over and around the crenelated ridge Angus takes intermittent  rests and like a rubber band stretching and shortening, we make our way steadily up and in to the bright sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reaching the summit we find a wee perch, dig out our sandwiches and sit down. It\u2019s windless and the sun has warmed the rock. After a long week, including guiding 2 single day traverses, I\u2019m also appreciative of the benign weather and opportunity to stop. Since its a shorter day we break our mantra of constant movement and stay; chatting and wondering, for almost an hour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sun fills the vacuous pit of Coir\u2019 Uisk. Angus takes a video and narrates the scene, describing all of the peaks in order from Mull to Torridon: the west of Scotland laid out. It\u2019s a savage landscape where the lack of  identifiable structure is both beautiful and bewildering. Skye in particular, estranged from the mainland, feels an other<\/em> place. Time has wandered here; a sort of geological stravaig with signatures of ice and flood. On the Cuillin the giants pestle carries on grinding stone and where water collects it makes rivulets and scribbles down the cliffs, cutting through heather to the loch where it empties back in to the Atlantic. We sit a bit longer.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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