In the summer I made a headpoint ascent of a route called \u2018The Treacherous Underfoot\u2019 (E7 6b) on a cliff known as ‘The Face of Adversity’ out at Trearddur Bay. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The route climbs the major line of weakness up the middle of the cliff ( a discontinuous crack starting at a tidal ledge) and overhangs between 30-45 degrees for the whole 20 metres. It’s a total belter of a climb and up there with the most fun I\u2019ve had on a rope. I\u2019ve got really fond memories of hanging out on this little stretch of coastline; feeling inspired by the aesthetic of the cliff, its exposure to the elements, the intimacy with the sea and the novelty of climbing on such a steep face. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
My first visit was in Autumn 2022 with Dave Rudkin where I followed him up the first ascent of a cool new route, The White Shag (E5 6b). I returned this June to try to on sight The Crow Road (E6 6b) with Dan Macmanus. We both managed to scrape it on our second go, ground up. These are both great routes that pack a punch. I was psyched and returned on my own, down aiding The Treacherous Underfoot to check it all out. This was a great work out and technical challenge in its own right. \u00a0It took a while to figure it all out but the relentless physicality of the route made it really satisfying to try. Every little improvement in movement efficiency made another move possible higher up. I relished the challenge of not just getting fitter but also the opportunity to rise to the challenge and get better.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As with most trad routes, there are a few options for how you might go about climbing The Treacherous Underfoot: on sight, gear in, placing gear, top rope, practiced lots or practiced little. I\u2019d decided that the most appealing approach for me was to start it on the tidal ledge and to place all the gear on the lead in a oner. There was the question of the few pegs in situ as two of these turned out to be quite awkward to clip draws to, either adding an extra move or meaning I needed to stop mid move. I might have left draws on these but I felt motivated for the increased challenge of placing it all on the go and I had time and motivation to apply. Ultimately it was the right level for me as I had to get fitter, smarter and try really hard. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
I worked it until I thought It was worth a lead attempt, which on climbs with good gear I\u2019ve learned to do sooner rather than later. From a logistical perspective I was limited to one lead go in a session because to strip the gear back out I\u2019d have to down aid the route and re-climb it, all within the couple hours of low tide opportunity. I didn\u2019t have the extra capacity or time for this so I needed to focus all my energy on one good go. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Conditions were generally only good in the afternoon and on bright, breezy, low humidity days so opportunities were irregular. Collectively, these could all have been downsides but I just didn\u2019t mind. I found time at the cliff enjoyable and the prospect of return only exciting. I treated the logistics as nuances to be managed rather than inconveniences to be begrudged. In the end I think these constraints helped me focus and perform well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I was relieved to fall off on my first lead attempt with Harriet. The conditions were greasy and I only got half way but it broke the spell of having a first go. The second go with James was squeezed in after work but conditions were great and I fell on the last few metres. That was a really satisfying attempt as I climbed as well as I could have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
On my third and final attempt, Tim and I were greeted at the top of the crag by the local land owner. He told us to \u2018do your abseiling today but never to come back again\u2019, citing his potential liability for accidents and litter as reasons he didn\u2019t want people to gather at the cliff. I smiled at Tim, \u2018better do it this time then\u2019. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A conversation with the BMC is ongoing and I hope that future access to the cliff will be agreed.<\/em> Thanks Tim, James, Harriet, Rach, Aeron, Olly, Dave, Dan and Amy for your time and craic. Thanks Ray for the spectacular photos and George for the vision.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n